The fescue lawns in Harvey County have greened up in the cooler temperatures of spring! Lots of lawn mowers humming and edgers buzzing let us know its lawn maintenance season too.
Mowing: Turf-types: 2 to 3 inches. K-31: 2 1⁄2 to 3 1⁄2 inches. Raise height to the upper end of the range during the summer.
Fertilizing: September, November, May.
Watering: In the Spring water minimally. Summer: 1 to 1 1⁄2 inches per week. Fall: only as needed to prevent wilting.
Planting: September or March through April, using 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
Dandelions: Herbicides are most effective in the fall.
Crabgrass Preemergence herbicide: Apply before redbud trees reach full bloom.
Grubs: Treat May through July depending on when grubs are present.
Aerating: Early spring or fall, as needed
Doing these chores at the correct time and correct way will save you money and time and help create a healthy, beautiful lawn.
Weeds are opportunist! Meaning they grow when the conditions (opportunity) is right for them. Too dry, too wet, poor soil drainage, compacted soil, temperature, etcetera, weeds will find a way! Why do weeds invade your lawn?
Mowing too low and too infrequently thins the turf, allowing weeds to get started.
Frequent watering encourages weed seed germination, disease, thatch, and a shallow-rooted turf that is less competitive with weeds for soil moisture and nutrients. Continue reading “Why do weeds invade your lawn!”
“Where Buffalo Roam” is part of the history of the Kansas prairie. It is also the title of one of the speaker topics at the Harvey County Home and Garden Show this Sunday at 1:00 pm. Buffalo grass is my favorite lawn grass. If you would like to learn how to have a buffalo grass lawn this would be a great program to attend. Admission is free for kids 12 and under, while attendees 13 and over is just a dollar.
I am a believer in organic matter! If you only do one thing to improve your lawn or garden areas you should work in organic matter. Organic matter is a good way to improve garden soil as it improves a heavy soil by bettering tilth, aeration and how quickly the soil absorbs water.
However, organic matter added in the spring should be well decomposed and finely shredded/ground. Manures and compost should have a good earthy smell without a hint of ammonia. Add a 2-inch layer of organic matter to the surface of the soil and work the materials into the soil thoroughly. Be sure soils are dry enough to work before tilling as wet soils will produce clods.
To determine if a soil is too wet to work, grab a handful and squeeze. If water comes out, it is much too wet. Even if no water drips out, it still may not be dry enough to work. Push a finger into the soil you squeezed. If it crumbles, it is dry enough, but if your finger just leaves an indentation, more time is needed. Be sure to take your handfuls of soil from the depth you plan to work the soil because deeper soils may contain more moisture than the surface.
If you have every visited with me and we have talked about watering lawns, or trees you know I have a philosophy of not wasting water and watering when plants need it not when it’s Tuesday.
Well here we are in winter, no snow has fallen or any moisture for that matter for some time. As of this column I have not seen any predicted rainfall or precipitation in the near future. While we don’t often think about watering plants in the winter during dry spells it may be necessary.
Be sure to thoroughly soak the soil around established trees and shrubs before the ground freezes in the fall. And, in the case of a dry winter, water during a mid-winter thaw when the ground isn’t frozen and a few days of mild weather are predicted (especially evergreens). Evergreens like pine and cedar have much smaller root systems compared to deciduous trees like oak and maple.
Be sure to disconnect and drain the hose when done watering to prevent freeze and cracking of lines. This may mean dragging out garden hoses in the cold and this is an inconvenience to you. However, hydrated trees will survive winter better and come out of winter undamaged from dry winter conditions if they have periodic irrigation in a dry winter.
Everywhere I go I see leaves on the ground or in bags. The good thing is we don’t have to send all of our fallen leaves to the landfill but instead we can compost them at home and use in the garden later. Compost is a great addition to any garden! How is the composting process accomplished?
Microorganisms and small invertebrates account for most of the decomposition that takes place within the compost pile. With the required oxygen and water, these organisms break down yard and food wastes, producing carbon dioxide, heat, water, and soil-enriching compost in the process.
One way to determine success is to monitor pile temperature. During composting, the pile warms to 150° to 160° F. and gradually returns to ambient temperatures after organic materials decompose. Warm temperatures increase water evaporation. A decrease in the pile’s weight and volume is another way to measure composting effectiveness. Decomposing organisms include naturally occuring bacteria, fungi, and molds, and small invertebrate animals such as mites, millipedes, insects, and earthworms. With a wide range of organisms, there is a better chance that composted materials will be broken down completely. Aerobic bacteria, which require oxygen, are the most important decomposers in the compost pile. Continue reading “Composting Leaves”
October is flying by! Leaves are beginning to fall and it is just about time to give our cool season lawns some nitrogen. November is the time to give cool-season lawns the last nitrogen application of the season. Why November? Because while top growth slows in response to cool temperatures, grass plants are still making food (carbohydrates) by photosynthesis. A November nitrogen application helps boost the photosynthesis rate. Carbohydrates that are not used in growth are stored in the crown and other storage tissues in the plant. These carbohydrate reserves help the turf grass green up earlier in the spring and sustain growth into May without the need for early-spring (March or April) nitrogen. Those early-spring nitrogen applications are less desirable because they can lead to excessive shoot growth and reduced root growth.
Other benefits of November-applied nitrogen for cool-season grasses include improved winter hardiness, root growth and shoot density. How much should you apply? One to 1 to 1 ½ pounds actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn area is sufficient. Following the recommended spreader setting on the fertilizer bag should apply the correct amount of fertilizer. In order for this application to be effective, the nitrogen must be readily available to the plant, because the growing season is nearly over. Therefore, for a November application, use a soluble (quickly-available) nitrogen carrier such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Many turf grass fertilizers sold in garden centers and other retail outlets also contain soluble nitrogen. Avoid products that contain water-insoluble nitrogen (slow-release) for this application. As always, sweep up any fertilizer that gets on driveways, sidewalks, or streets and reapply it to the lawn.
The best thing about Fall is the nice cool temperatures!
The second best thing is leaf color changes to reds, oranges, purples and yellows. Then soon leaves begin to fall. When they start falling from deciduous trees so it’s a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter.
Although a scattering of leaves won’t harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants. Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter. There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector.
Continue reading “Leaves on Your Lawn”