K-State Research and Extension

There are two great events going on this time of year!  Potato planting time and the Harvey County Home and Garden Show!  The Show is March 10 and 11 this year at the Armory in Newton.

My favorite varieties of potato to plant are ‘Red Norland’ and ‘Yukon Gold’.  Each will produce the early “new potato” my family likes to eat with a roast at my house.  Also, these two can produce larger potatoes for baked or mashed.  But the real reason is they just taste great!

Traditionally, we use St. Patrick’s Day as a date to target for potato planting.

Actually, any time from mid- to late-March is fine for potato planting. Be sure to buy seed potatoes rather than using those bought for cooking. Seed potatoes are certified disease free and have plenty of starch to sprout as quickly as soil temperatures allow. Most seed potatoes can be cut into four pieces, though large potatoes may yield more, and small less. Each seed piece should be between 1.5 and 2 ounces. Seed pieces this size will have more than one eye.

Each pound of potatoes should yield 8 to10 seed pieces. Cut the seed 2 to 3 days before planting so freshly cut surfaces have a chance to suberize, or toughen, and form a protective coating.  Storing seed in a warm location during suberization will speed the process. Plant each seed piece about 1 to 2 inches deep and 8 to 12 inches apart in rows. Though it is important to plant potatoes in March, emergence is slow. It is often mid- to late-April before new plants poke their way through the soil. As the potatoes grow, pull soil up to the base of the plants. New potatoes are borne above the planted seed piece, and it is important to keep sunlight from hitting the new potatoes. Exposed potatoes will turn green and produce a poisonous substance called solanine. Keeping the potatoes covered will prevent this.

I was hoping for sure we would have a 12 inch snow on the ground to give us some much needed winter moisture!  Remember, plants use and lose moisture in the winter months too.  If you have not done any watering of your landscape plants it will sure do them some good.

Speaking of winter, now is a good time to remove dead foliage from ornamental grasses. Grasses green up earlier if foliage is removed and are more attractive without a mixture of dead and live leaves. A number of tools can be used including hand clippers, weed whips (if the foliage is of a small enough diameter), weed whips with a circular blade, or even a chain saw.

Use the top of the chainsaw bar to cut so the saw doesn’t pull in debris and clog. Also, it is often helpful to tie foliage together before cutting so it doesn’t interfere and is easier to dispose of. Burning is another option — but only if it is safe and legal to do so.

Note that these grasses may not burn long, but they burn extremely hot. Even so, the crown of the plant is not damaged and new growth appears relatively quickly.

If the center of the clump shows little growth, the plant would benefit from division. Dig up the entire clump and separate. Then replant the vigorous growth found on the outer edge of the clump.